What I Ate This Week

End of another week, and my brackets are busted.  Thank god the rest of my week was good… otherwise I’d be cranky!

One amazing food experience to write about, and two little miscellaneous notes.  Aren’t you excited?  Well, I am, because I’m starting out with an amazing meal at one of my favorite places…

Tapas Sin Pretensión at El Meson (West Carrollton, OH)

West Carrolton in particular, and the Dayton suburbs in general, aren’t exactly known as a culinary hotbed.  In fact, Dayton seems almost completely geared for passers-by, what with the ever-shifting highway running right through the town.  But a few years ago, I got a tip from a friend that I continue to treasure to this day– “GO TO EL MESON.”  I did then, and I still do now.  The reasons are varied, but are not limited to amazing service, a real pan-Spanish and Latin view of food, and a sense of adventure (at least given the surroundings!)

OK, it doesn't LOOK like much...

I’ll admit that one of the immediate “negatives” I associate with El  Meson is that it looks like every other tacky independent “Mexican” restaurant that subists on catering to locals who wouldn’t know real Mexican food if it was put in front of them.  (I mean no offense… for much of my life, this is who I was!)  When you step inside, that vision continues… it’s not the most attractive place, except for their beautiful covered patio which has a kind of understated charm to it.  That’s a nice environment.

Oddly like pierogis, but better

One of the things I love most about El Meson are the owners, who infuse character into the place through their presence, and through some of the friendliest service you’ll find ANYWHERE.  As per usual, we were seated quickly and graciously– the place is so large, I’ve never had to wait– and orderes were taken right away.  I was delighted to find pisco sour on the drinks menu, so I sprang for it.  El Meson does a very nice job with their drinks (to which the margarita I had later would attest), but the pisco sour wasn’t quite on the mark.  It was frozen (?!) which really blunted the edge from the pisco, making it very much like a frozen margarita.  Not my speed.  As for the food, we decided to go tapas style all the way, and started with empenaditas of beef which came out with an unusual (to me) pierogi-style cover.  While it didn’t strike me as the Mexican and Cuban empenadas I’ve had previously, I’ll admit it was tasty.

Now THAT's a sampler platter

But one of the meal’s real high points came next, with a mixed Spanish tapas platter.  This thing, or a variation of it, is on my list every time I go to El Meson.  The chorizo comes three ways (one Spanish hard-cured, two fresh Mexican style) and explode with flavor in the mouth– remarkable and awesome the differences between them.  A little greasy, but the nature of the beast for these fine meats.  Alongside were a couple of slices of jamon iberico, serrano-style.  The pungent flavor of a serrano-style ham makes me think of Europe, but it tastes of heaven.  Paired with a nice manchego cheese, you’ve got Spain in a bite right there.  I’ve had stronger Manchegos, but it allowed the serrano to come through beautifully.  And let’s not forget the amazing roasted red peppers and mediterranean olives.  Folks, order me 3 of these and send me to bed.  Life is good.

Have I mentioned that El Meson’s owners do one of the most brilliant things I’ve seen from “international eatery” management?  (It’s an idea so good, I’ve stolen it for the fictional restaurant in my head that I’d like to run someday.)  (Almost) every year, they make a pilgrimage to a Spanish-speaking country for a couple weeks and do food research.  Further, they invite along any paying guest who is interested, mostly enthusiastic patrons of the restaurant.  Armed with notebooks of information, including recipes, ingredients, and vendors, they come home to Dayton and work up a special menu that is a part of the overall restaurant’s offerings for that year.  Freaking brilliant.  (The current menu is of Peru and looked quite appetizing, and their next trip– later this year– is to Spain.  I’m really looking forward to that one!)

!Viva La Mexico!

Beyond the regional specialty, the food is from all over the Latin world, and I was keen to mix it up a bit.  What else is new, right?  So for the “main” salvo of tapas, we ordered chicken tinga (Mexican) and an arepa with chorizo (Colombian), with sides of black beans (Cuban) and some platanos maduros (all over).  All excellent.  The tinga, which is a chunky stew of chicken and vegetables in a thin broth and often used for a dip, was perhaps the best of the bunch.  Great flavor from the smoky chiles and fall-apart chicken.  If I may speak some blasphemy, I think it’s better than Nada’s tinga– though it doesn’t hold a candle to my own.    The plantains were a lovely dessert with some Mexican crema, and the black beans were solid, if not quite vinegary enough to my Cuban standards.  Really nice.  The only complaint of the bunch was the arepa, surprisingly, as I found it to be exceedingly salty.  Salt is one of the most critical elements of Latin-Caribbean foods, and I’d rather have too much in there than too little, but this one was a little heavy-handed, aided by the fact that fresh chorizo is a very salty sausage.  But even that was completely just fine.

Corn, chorizo, cheese, (sodium) chloride

All in all, a delightful experience.  I’d be hesitant to recommend this place on the site for fear of filling up this find, but the place is so big I’d rather keep the tables full.  Those of you in Cincinnati, or anyone that plies I-75 through southern Ohio needs to stop at El Meson.  You’ll be glad you did.

Workman-like Mexican at Rio Grande in Newport, KY

Not to be confused with the big chain

I also had the opportunity to “go Mexican” for lunch this week, which is always a bonus.  On the advice of, and accompanied by, co-workers we went across the river to Newport, where Rio Grande sits at the far end of a strip mall near the highway.  These kinds of locations don’t scare me– in fact, some of the best Mexican food you’ll find sits roadside in strip malls.  This place was described to me alongside La Mexicana (also in Newport, and delicious) and Taqueria Mercado (in Fairfield, and reviewed previously on this side) as being one of the greats in town.  After eating there, I’m afraid I can’t concur with such a strong recommendation, but I will say it was a nice change of place and a “just fine” place to enjoy some Mexican (and Tex-Mex) cooking.

the ingredients are all here...

Per usual, since it’s my first time here I order chile colorado.  (I always get either this or tacos al carbon the first time, as I find these are dishes that really test a kitchen’s ability to deliver bright and bold flavors.)  All of our food came in heaping mounds– you will NOT go hungry at Rio Grande.  The food itself was decent.  If I would have wished for anything, it would have been bolder red chile flavor out of the sauce.  And corn tortillas (instead of flour).  But the quality and quantity were just fine.  I think the portion sizes could be smaller and they could invest the difference in elevating the ingredients to a more transcendent level.

What’s nice about this place is that the menu is big and diverse enough to ensure that it’s a good work-lunch location.  Unlike at more traditional and authentic Mexican restaurants, a trip to Rio Grande ensures that everyone can find something that suits them.  For the neighborhood, I’m glad this place is here.  If it keeps folks out of Church’s Chicken (or even Don Pablo’s), then it’s doing its job!

An Achievement, Hanging

Well, folks, I’ll end on a nice little happy note.  I have finally received my Culinary Arts Certificate from the MCI.  It encapsulates much of what was great about 2008 (and shelters me from some of the terrible things of last year).  Going back to school was one of the decisions of last year I’ve been most proud of, and while I’m not ready to get into restauranting, and still probably couldn’t take on “real cooks” head-to-head, I’ve learned food and life skills, and I’m just damn proud of myself for completing coursework in something I’ve previously viewed as hard and require hand-eye coordination!  So I’ll leave you with a little something on my wall, which I’ll take a peek at on my harder days.  “See” you next week!

My walking papers

Ah, Madness.    I’ll be the first to admit I am not wild about college basketball.  But I think you have to be pulse-less not to get a rise out of the first weekend of March Madness.  64 teams, single elimination, national TV exposure… and emotions running high.  While I most definitely prefer football in the “battle of college sports,” this is one of the best weekends of sport our fine land has.  And it doesn’t hurt when the first day of play gives you 15 right picks of 16 in your bracket!  Since then, well it hasn’t been pretty and my alma mater (Michigan) has hung up its sneakers after a most memorable year.  And as Sunday afternoon becomes Sunday evening, I prepare to enter my annual 51-week hibernation for the sport!

Well, here in Cincinnati you can start to feel the onset of REAL spring.  Not the one-off fluke 70 degree day, but the time when even the coldest days are noticably warmer than the coldest ones were a month ago.  And when it’s not dark when you leave the office (at least on a good day).  Spring time puts me in a frantically happy and nostalgic mood.  And this week for lunch, I visited two of my favorite comfort dining options downtown.

The Buffet at Akash India

A buffet-eye view of what Cincinnati is apparently missing out on...

A visit to Akash India’s lunch buffet is a walk down memory lane.  I’ll admit that when I first moved to Cincinnati from an even-more-rural upbringing, the thought of eating Indian food for fun would have been strange indeed… I was drawn to the cuisine (at least the varieties most commonly served in this area) through its exoticism.  And surely enough, one of the good ones was just a few blocks from work.  Akash India is a perpetually empty (except from 12-1 on weekdays on nice weather) Indian restaurant owned by a family that has what must be nearly a dozen Indian eateries of different (but comparable) names across the city.  I’ll admit that the decor isn’t the tops, but you’re here to eat.  And if it’s lunchtime, you’re here for the buffet.

Dig in...

So, for the most part in my life I’ve sworn off buffets… they get me in trouble.  I eat too much.  Akash’s is no exception… except that it is exceptional!  I’ll admit it’s been a few months since I’ve been here (which is surprising, since it’s always on my work lunch short-list) and that may have– slightly– increased the amount I ate vs. a regular visit… but not by much.  The great things about Akash’s buffet are that it seems there are a couple different proteins every day, and they rotate throughout the week.  Sure, it’s not exactly an Indian national survey of food styles (they pretty much stick to the “meat with a curry sauce” theme) and yes, the sauces are watered down just a touch for the lunch crowd, but the flavor’s there.  Always something great on the buffet.

It's not pretty to look at, but close your eyes and open your mouth...

OK, I’ll admit it’s a full plate and kind of chaos to look at.  But I wanted to do it in one trip!  On this particular visit, I enjoyed meatball korma, chicken curry, and some lovely chickpeas, alongside the ever-present naan and fried onions.  (Yes, I realize many of these things aren’t strictly Indian.  But it works, trust me.)  I love it all, although the best must be the most touristed dish from India (thanks, Brits!) chicken tikka masala.  They didn’t have it on this day, but you’ve got even odds on any given day so GIVE IT A GO!  Just don’t go when you’re famished, and show more restraint than I do, eh?

5th Street’s Hot Dog Guy

Some people spot spring from the arrival of a red-breasted robin.  That’s nice, but not nearly precise enough for me.  This is how I know spring has truly arrived:

The first sign of spring

I saw him last week on my way somewhere else for lunch, and made a mental note.  This week, my first day without a “lunch date” when the weather was nice, I hit 5th St in search of that thing I needed, my fix.  Roadside sausages.

I know… these guys are everywhere in Cincinnati and around our great land.  But… how great is that?  My choices were some kind of terrible buffalo chicken salad in the cafeteria, or this:

a "brat" and an italian

There’s not much to say about this meal, other than it was excellent.  Bun, sauteed onions and peppers, two sausages (a “brat” in Cincinnati-speak, of the white processed variety, and an Italian), and mustard.  Right on.  OK, let’s face it… these are only just slightly better-than-average sausages (Glier’s, who makes them, does a decent job), but they’re my first outdoor sausages of the season!  I’ll admit, being from Michigan I do dislike the kind of brats they eat in Cincinnati, but it’s still a grilled sausage and a country mile ahead of most fancier foods.

So those are a couple of comfort foods for me.  A nice food week, that’s for sure.  Makes me excited for what the week ahead holds.  Get outside, everybody!

This week is an interesting study in contrasts– two work meals this week that couldn’t be more different– it’s a study in contrasts.

Unrefined but Soulful:  Tucker’s Restaurant

On the indirect advice of Julie (http://winemedinemecincinnati.com/), and on a day when I was lucky enough to have a long lunch, I convinced Jayson to come with me to Tucker’s Restaurant on Vine St. at 16th in Over the Rhine.  Coming from 5th street, it was a pretty long hike!  The place certainly wasn’t much to look at on the outside (the exterior said to me, “keep on walking buddy,” but the inside told a different story.

Eatin' comfortably...

The place is more than meets the eye.  In a very urban, almost exclusively African-American neighborhood, I can safely say that the crowd crammed in at Tucker’s was about as diverse as I’ve seen anywhere in Cincinnati (which, for what it’s worth, is a pretty diverse city at its heart).  The menu was relatively simple short-order-cook fare with a couple of elegant surprises (curried pumpkin soup?  vegetarian chili?)  I decided to go for the patty melt, a good homestyle meal if I’ve ever known one.

Handled with care

It came out alongside a strangely bland bowl of red beans and rice.  The patty melt came out nice and toasty– it had been assembled with care, and browned nicely.  The only issue for me is… it didn’t really wow me!  I was really disappointed by my disappointment.  Every part of me was willing this meal to be excellent, so much so that I’ve decided that maybe I just didn’t order the right thing.  Everything about Tucker’s is good… clearly run with love, and at their prices you know they’re not making much money.  (Jayson and I did the math on the long walk back to work and just couldn’t find a way for the numbers to square!)  So you know they can’t be buying the most expensive ingredients, I was just hoping for a little more dynamic flavor out of my meal.  I’m really tempted to go back, if for no other reason than to support a nice and vibrant local business, but am i throwing good money after bad?

Sterile but tasty:  Nada reprised

OK, so I’ve had my say about Nada on this site before.  I won’t re-open that discussion except to say I now have a very clear rule about Nada (and a few other places in town like, yes, Bootsy’s):  I only go there when friends and co-workers have a planned event and I want their company.  Such was the case this week at a going-away happy hour for a co-worker.  I did eventually decide to have dinner because my pantry was pretty bare (as I’ve had a tough time getting to the store lately!), so I reluctantly ordered the tacos carnitas a la diabla.  I was enjoying my (admittedly always very good) margarita, when the plate arrived.

Set your expectations low enough and you will eventually have a nice positive surprise!

They looked good as they usually do, and thank god they’re finally consistently serving their tacos on corn tortillas (!).  And I will say, despite myself and the knowledge that they crank these tacos out without any love at all… these were really excellent.  Easily the best food I’ve enjoyed at Nada, and I’ve had these before!  Really tender carnitas, with a sauce that was a bit more piquant than spicy… but gave enough heat to be interesting without being overwhelming.  The pickled onions and guacamole complemented, rather than distracted, from the flavors on the plate.  And a little lime on top.  Really, really, really excellent.  Damn it. 

Discussion Topic of the Week:  Sometimes effort, love, and soul really elevate a place to be a place you want to love and support.  But what when the food doesn’t deliver?  By contrast, we’ve all been to the places that don’t even try… their popularity assures business regardless of if the food is good… you hate going there for all those reasons.  But what when the food lives up to the hype?  What’s more important to you… soul or technique?  Head or heart?  I don’t have a good answer.  I just want it all!

P.S.:  NOT Cincy’s Best Burger @ MLT’s

A co-worker, when they learned about my ongoing quest for this town’s best burger, implored me to make a trip to Mt. Lookout (probably my favorite neighborhood in town).  Unlike most that would ask me to do so, though, his reco wasn’t Zips– it was MLT’s (Mt. Lookout Tavern).  Interesting.  OK, so like many others I’ve been to MLTs many times to drink and watch sports, but I don’t usually think of it as an eating place.  (Well, do wings count?)  But this afternoon I went and ordered a burger.  Feeling indulgent, I went for the Texas chili burger.  It had potential, I mean look at it:

Less than meets the eye

Unfortunately it was nowhere near as good as it looked, at least to me.  For starters, the burger was mercilessly cooked to at least medium-well.  MLT’s isn’t the kind of place where I’d trust them to a medium-rare but I also didn’t expect them to just kill it!  It was topped with chili that wasn’t exactly burger-chili;  it was watery… I understand watery chili, but then don’t offer it as burger or nacho toppings!  And the bun was really weak (structurally), couldn’t hold up to such a substantial piece of meat.

Don’t worry, MLT’s.  I’ll be back.  I love you.  But I’ll be ordering wings.

Enjoy the Madness, everyone!

Another week, 3 more good dining experiences to speak of!  I just bought Rock Band for my video game console, so I think I’m going to make it snappy!

Bockfest @ Arnolds

Well, folks– welcome to Spring!  Said another way, Happy Bockfest!  It regularly surprises me how few of our residents (even the longer-time ones) know about Bockfest.  What a shame!  It’s Cincinnati’s first beer-and-sausage festival of the year (though far from its last).  So, a couple hours before the festival started I headed down for Friday lunch at what is arguably Bockfest Central, Arnold’s.

I’ll admit that Arnold’s hasn’t exactly been my favorite Cincinnati restaurant over the years.  Of course, it’s got the history– as Cincinnati’s oldest bar and restaurant, it’s in a bit of a league of its own.  And yes… it has really nice character.  And a courtyard that kicks serious ass, perhaps the best in the city:

Brews with views

Yes, Arnold’s has all the intangibles.  I just don’t think it’s had the “tangibles”– the food!  Admittedly, Arnold’s has always been a lunch place for me (given that I’m a downtowner as far as work goes) and they’ve had a smaller lunch menu.  But the focus has always been on “cheap and uninteresting”– the kind of place where you go for the atmosphere and “suck it up” for the food.  Well, folks, things are changing.  The menu’s bigger than I’ve ever seen it (even if not perfectly designed) and there are a lot more interesting things to see and enjoy.  As for me, I didn’t order from the menu as they had a special with my name on it:  Bockwurst Hot Brown.

OK, you fans of Kentucky’s finest dish might be thinking that a bockwurst hot brown isn’t a hot brown at all.  You’re right.  (Those less experienced with the traditional meat, cheese, and bread concoction should read up:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_brown.) 

God bless this town

The dish was a nice freshly-made, grilled bockwurst atop sauerkraut and a hoagie bun, topped with onions and a spicy mustard sauce.  Authentic?  Hell no.  But super-delicious and appropriate to the occasion.

In case you’re wondering, the other food my companions received mixed reviews, with sandwiches drawing top marks.  This place is worth it for the atmosphere and the food (variety and quality) are getting better!

Murray’s Cheese Shop @ Kroger Fresh Fare

Yesterday while I was out shopping in the suburban shopping hell that is Kenwood Towne Center, I was feeling peckish but not hungry enough for a full meal.  I remembered that Kroger opened their shiny new Fresh Fare supermarket in the area and I wanted to check it out.  Glad I did!  Yes, lots and lots of fresh foods (with prices to match)– and it was a great way to get fine dining samples far better than the hot pockets I’m used to!  But definitely the biggest draw of the store is this:

Heaven's gates

Not much to say, except that if you’ve never been to a Murray’s, you need to go.  Selection and service are impeccable, and this is the only place in Cincinnati I’ve seen some of these choices– this may cut down on the number of Zingerman’s trips I take when in Ann Arbor!  Picked up a delicious quarter pound of Pleasant Ridge Reserve (one of my favorites) and a cluster of grapes.  Headed to the park and had a most divine treat!  Go there– support this place– these are “Good Guys” of food!

Burger Roundup:  Terry’s Turf Club, Five Guys

Two quick updates.  First, I made my second trip to Terry’s on Friday. (Some of you may remember I went there last year and had an almost-religious experience.  It’s on my blog here somewhere.)  My biggest complaint from my last burger (and complaint is far too strong a word) was that I “over-ordered”– too much stuff on it.  I took a cue from my own experiences and just got it with cheese, grilled onion, lettuce, and shiitake mushrooms.  And it was LOADS better, easily in competition with Red for the town’s best.  Without the heavy red-wine-and-burgundy sauce (which was delicious when I had it before, but dominated the flavor of the burger), I could really get a wonderful note of pepper on the meat which was exactly what I was looking for.  Again, a perfect medium-rare and accompanied by Cincy’s best fries.  All good!

Finally, some others have noted but I will add my joyous refrain:  Five Guys Burgers and Fries are coming to town!  This is GOOD NEWS indeed!  Film at 11…

Hope everyone enjoys a springlike week!

So another week down, unbelievably.  It wasn’t a week of any particular repute, though I suppose it was pleasant enough.  Culinarily, it’s very hard to follow up a week which included dinner at Pigall’s (a last dinner, no less).  But I had a few decent meals, including a positive (and therefore very surprising!) trip to Bar Louie, that faceless chain, where I actually had a lovely burger, prepared extremely well!  (In case you were curious, it was the Louie Burger, with sauteed onions, provolone cheese and giardinera.  And it was a perfect medium-rare.  Who knew?!)  But that’s not today’s topic.

The Michigan Coney Dog

So I won’t wax poetic about hot dog history.  Much has been writen about the origins of the hot dog and most folks who love street food know there are many cities with their own take on the dog.  And, to be honest, I love pretty much all of ‘em.  Don’t get me wrong, I’m no frankfurter whore, I appreciate their differences.  But it’s hard to find a truly local frank that isn’t excellent.

Growing up in Michigan, I’ve got a sentimental attachment to the Detroit-style Coney Island.  Again, if you want you can debate where coney dogs come from– but regardless, Detroit does have a legitimate claim to being the first coney dogs.  To get my fix today (while in the metro Flint area), I stopped in at a regional institution, Leo’s Coney Island.

Dog House

Who knew the path from Detroit (left) to Flint (right) was so beautiful?